A Guide to Edwardian Jewellery

This guide chronicles the ethereal, exquisite Edwardian jewellery of the era, from its glittering inception to its culmination at the dawn of WWI.

The Edwardian era (1901 – 1910)

Known in Europe as ‘La Belle Epoque’, the Edwardian era was a period of frivolity and wealth for the upper classes, led by the luxury-loving King Edward VII. Edward earned a reputation as a light-hearted, gambling playboy, his love for life’s luxuries extending to jewellery.

Aside from his magnificent coronation (attended by royalty and aristocracy from across the globe), Edward held spectacular society balls and soirées showcasing flagrant displays of material wealth, as seen in 1900s jewellery.

Cartier: The royal jeweller

Founded in the turbulent political and social climate of 1847, Cartier’s desirability skyrocketed after it was awarded the Royal Warrant in 1904, becoming the official jewellery supplier to King Edward and his court. Cartier’s innovative, fashion-led ethos pioneered platinum in Edwardian jewellery, sparking the ‘white on white’ trend that lasted until the beginning of World War I in 1914.

Edwardian Craftsmanship

In the early 1900s, a new era of jewellery began. This was the Edwardian era, and it was known for its light and airy designs. Fine craftsmanship and attention to detail were key features of Edwardian jewellery. The Edwardian period was marked by a return to more delicate and intricate designs after the heavy, ornate styles of the Victorian era. Jewellery makers took great pride in their work and tried to create the most beautiful pieces possible. They began to experiment with new materials and techniques, resulting in some truly unique pieces. The jewellery was often made with delicate materials such as lace, pearls, and feathers. The pieces were often very intricate and detailed.

Edwardian jewellery: Materials and techniques

Edwardian jewellery is typified by delicate, ethereal designs using some of the world’s most precious and durable stones, such as diamonds and platinum.

Handcrafted motifs

Railing against mass-made jewellery, Edwardian jewellery drew inspiration from the 18th century and shifted towards high-quality, handcrafted designs. Style-conscious Edwardians coveted the intricate detailing and traditional motifs such as ribbons, bows, garlands, and lace, all of which rapidly rose to prominence.

Platinum

Platinum was prevalent in Edwardian jewellery due to its strength, beauty, and capacity to complement the era’s feminine pastels. It was also frequently used to make lighters and millegrained, diamond-encrusted lace jewellery.

Diamonds and pearls

The De Beers Consolidated Mines Ltd founding in 1888 made diamonds widely available and relatively affordable in the Edwardian era. Jewellery often incorporated several diamond cuts in one design during this period, coinciding with the introduction of new gemstone cuts.

However, pearls sat atop the status pyramid as they were more valuable than diamonds at the time. The luminous stones typified Edwardian jewellery’s delicate ‘white’ theme, and many pieces incorporated both diamonds and pearls.

Invisible settings

The light, ethereal Edwardian style coveted by society women saw invisible jewellery settings rise in popularity. Invisible settings (where diamonds appear to float on the skin) and lace-like filigree settings (fine metal threads and tiny metal beads create an ornate design) were two popular choices.

Millegrain

Platinum paved the way for the millegrain decorative technique, which applies a border of delicate balls and ridges around a gemstone or on the edges of a design to create a softer, lighter look.

How to tell if your jewellery is Edwardian

The Edwardian era was a time of great change, and that is reflected in the jewellery of the time. If you’re not sure if your jewellery is Edwardian, there are a few things to look for.

First, check the materials. During the Edwardian era, new materials were being used in jewellery for the first time, such as platinum and iridescent opals. So, if your piece is made from these materials, it’s likely to be Edwardian.

Next, take a look at the design. Pieces from this era are often very delicate and intricate, with lots of small details. They also often feature symbols of love and romance, such as hearts and flowers.

Finally, check the hallmarks. If it was made in England, there should be a mark indicating that it was made during the reign of King Edward VII (1901-1910).

Popular Edwardian jewellery styles

Tiaras

Sparkling diamond and pearl filigree tiaras were fashionable in the Edwardian era, undoubtedly inspired by the abundance of glamorous events at Buckingham Palace. Wearing a bandeau with a feather aigrette was another popular, albeit more low-key style.

New necklines

Necklines and collars evolved following the conservative Victorian era, bestowing renewed importance on necklaces. Styles of the period included the popular colliers de chien (‘dog collars’), made from a ribbon adorned with a brooch or gemstones, or a series of pearl strings attached to form a choker.

Long necklaces

Long necklaces were equally popular, with pearl ‘chains’ worn full length, below the waistline. For example, sautoirs – composed of long ropes of pearls or beads with a fringed tassel at either end – were wrapped in excessive proportions around the neck.

Notable Edwardian necklaces

Ever mindful of fashion trends, Cartier created a long, double-pendant lavalier necklace named after the French actress Ève Lavallière. Moreover, Boucheron – another renowned fashion house of the era – created a signature necklace of strung pearls separated by diamond rondelles designed by Paul LeGrand.

Suffragette Jewellery

Suffragette jewellery was popular during the Edwardian era as a way for women to show their support for the suffrage movement. The most common type of jewellery worn by suffragettes was a simple silver or gold bracelet featuring simple, geometric designs, and most commonly with the word “Votes” inscribed on it. Suffragette jewellery was often given as gifts to friends and family members who were supportive of the cause.

Paste Jewellery

Paste jewellery was all the rage during the Edwardian era. Women would adorn themselves with necklaces, bracelets, and rings made of paste stones. Paste is a type of glass that is used to imitate diamonds and other precious stones. It was affordable, which made it popular among the middle class. But just because it was affordable didn’t mean it wasn’t high quality. In fact, paste jewellery was often better made than jewellery with real diamonds because it was less likely to chip or break.

Edwardian bracelets

Bracelets were ethereal and light, featuring swirling motifs and flowery designs, usually worn alone. Bracelets with ornate front sections, tapering away to refined chain links across the underside of the wrist, were particularly fashionable.

Edwardian rings

Usually made from platinum and diamonds, Edwardian rings featured intricate techniques such as filigree and millegrain. This luxury construction ensured the era’s ornate pieces sparkled, so it’s little wonder they make stunning engagement rings to this day.

Given their neo-baroque styling, Edwardian engagement rings are considered works of art best worn alone or alongside a simple wedding band.

Edwardian 2.96 Carat Natural Ceylon Sapphire & Diamond Ring, circa 1910

Edwardian earrings

The Edwardian elements such as platinum, diamonds, pearls, and millegrain took centre stage, and delicate openwork designs soon supplanted the simple diamond stud trend. In contrast to the preceding era, long glittering earrings with miniature garland-style wreaths and pronounced central stones became prevalent. Fabric-like gossamer earrings also appeared in various shapes and styles.

Edwardian Old Cut Diamond & Natural Pearl Drop Earrings, circa 1910

Vintage Edwardian jewellery

Aside from rings and antique earrings, the Edwardian era produced some stunning brooches and pendants, too:

Edwardian Opal & Pearl Brooch, circa 1905

Edwardian 8.24 Carat Natural Ceylon Yellow Sapphire Pendant, Circa 1910

End of an era

When WWI broke out in 1914, the war effort eclipsed the era’s frivolous party scene. The vast majority of platinum was diverted to the war effort, marking the end of the hedonistic Edwardian era.