Art Deco Jewellery

Art Deco jewellery was born during the period of decadence which followed the horrors of the First World War.

Embodied by bright colours and strong geometric detailing, Art Deco jewellery continues to influence jewellery design today. Whilst modern goldsmiths take inspiration from the trademarks of this exciting period, there is nothing like the beauty of authentic antique Art Deco jewellery.

Although the country was still recovering from war in the 1920s, many were prospering. Young people were rebelling against society’s old conventions and creating rules of their own. This rebelliousness resulted in a boom in the jewellery industry, as women – who had gained more liberties after WWI – bejewelled themselves in Art Deco jewellery.

Art Deco brooches and dress clips were worn on to blouses or cloche hats, and long pearl necklaces were prominent. The fashion for short, closely cropped hair on women meant that dangle earrings came into fashion.

Even accessories such as cigarette holders and cases, watches, and evening bags were being produced by jewellery houses – it was truly an age of glamour. It’s this timeless glamour of Art Deco jewellery that makes Art Deco brooches, necklaces, rings and vintage Art Deco earrings so enduring.

When was the Art Deco period?

Historians mark the beginning of the Art Deco period between 1910 and 1920, initially originating in Paris. However, the rise of the Art Deco movement is more commonly associated with the period following the First World War through to the beginning of World War II in 1939. Art jewellery was at its height in the 1930s.

What are the characteristics of Art Deco jewellery?

The most recognisable trademarks of vintage Art Deco style jewellery are clean lines and geometric shapes, as well as vibrant gemstones, diamonds and pearls.

Gemstones associated with antique Art Deco jewellery pieces include amethyst, emerald and sapphire. This period also saw a rise in the use of white metals – platinum and white gold. Art Deco brooches and rings were also much larger than the styles that came before, often featuring bold patterns and colours.

For a deeper look at what makes Art Deco jewellery so special, make sure that you take a look at the Gatsby Jewellery blog.

Who were the most famous Art Deco jewellery designers?

Amongst the most famous Art Deco jewellery designers were Raymond Templier, Jean Fouquet, Jeanne Bovin and, Cartier.

These are just a few of the stalwarts of the Art Deco movement, with many of the period’s most popular designers originating in Europe.

For more information on Art Deco jewellery designers, as well as the signatures of each designer’s work, be sure to read our look at influential Art Deco jewellers.

What influenced the Art Deco movement?

The opulent designs of the Art Deco period are generally credited to the increased desire for bright, optimistic designs following WWI. Art Deco jewellery designs were also greatly influenced by an eclectic mix of world cultures.

In particular, the excavation of King Tutankhamun’s tomb in Egypt in 1922 inspired jewellers and designers across the world. The colours and shapes of the treasures found inside the tomb influenced the common use of enamelling and stones such as onyx or coral throughout the era, specifically in Art Deco brooches.

How do you identify Art Deco jewellery?

Aside from the signature design features of Art Deco jewellery (geometric shapes, clean lines), you can generally identify authentic antique Art Deco jewellery by the quality and style of craftsmanship and the stones used in the design.

Popular gems included emeralds, sapphires, diamonds, amethysts and pearls. Drop and chandelier are two of the most popular styles of vintage Art Deco earrings.

The pieces above are authentic antique and vintage Art Deco jewellery pieces. Any jewellery which is modern but crafted in the Art Deco style j will be described as such.

What’s the difference between Art Deco and Art Nouveau?

The Art Nouveau period preceded the Art Deco era – a fleeting movement which took place between 1898 – 1910 and was characterised by more floral and organic designs.

For more information on Art Nouveau jewellery, take a look at our blog on the history of Art Nouveau jewellery, or view our collection of 1900s jewellery.